Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city is no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always shaped its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – hidden treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these tales and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
