🔗 Share this article

When compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning venues. But, situated near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has made the family totally surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” states a family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.